About Pye
Last night I made a Potato Bacon Torte (which can be found in the recipe section). The recipe for the pie crust was made exclusively with butter and I was reminded of a conversation with a friend who stated that if you want to a make “real” pie crust you must only use butter. I usually use Tenderflake, the “no fail” recipe right on the box . I have never been a fan of snootiness when it comes to cooking and even less so if that snootiness causes others to a) not attempt to cook or b) causes them to think their cookery is somehow inferior. Perfectionism has wiggled its way into enough of our daily lives that I feel like when it comes to the kitchen there should be a “you shall not pass” sign above the stove. With that said, I was very intrigued when I began to read about the history of pies.
Reference to “pyes” as food items appeared in England as early as the 12th Century. In the 14th century, it made its way into the Oxford Dictionary under the name pie. Interestingly, pie was originally made with pig fat, commonly known as lard. People would get their pig lard from a farm and render it for pie making. After the industrial revolution, Crisco made its way into the market in 1911 convincing women that this substitute was healthier and was clearly easier to access. With all we know now about trans-fats it is obvious that this was not a healthy alternative. But butter, historically was never used in early English pie making. Butter was introduced much later in pie making and was thought to be healthier than lard and more flavorful, but in actuality lard has less saturated fat, more unsaturated fat, and less cholesterol than an equal amount of butter by weight. Also, Tenderflake (shortening) has followed the rules about trans fats and is now a safe, viable choice. This clearly means that the definition of making “real” pie is much more fluid in its execution. In fact, chefs today are going back to the pig fat for their pies for that authentic early 19th century flavor.
So, what is my opinion on pie making? To begin with, there are many options that are not to be frowned upon. You can buy a crust from the grocery store, I guarantee your family will not scrutinize you over it. You can buy the Red Robin mix where you just add water. Finally you can make it from scratch. The last option I want to demystify immediately. It is not that hard to make a pie crust. As far as what to use, shortening or butter (I am assuming you are not going to a farm for pig fat), my research indicated that for the best pie, use both, half and half. Famous pie lady Kate McDermott (The Art of Pie) uses exactly that and she in known far and wide for her “perfect” crust. Last night I used only butter but it is harder to work with and does not give you as flaky a crust. Seriously though, the “no fail” pie recipe on the box of Tenderflake has never let me down. What is most important is that you know the steps and have a feel for each of the stages.
So here goes: How to make pie crust with whatever recipe you are following:
Firstly, get a big glass of water with ice in it and keep it in the fridge until you are ready to use it. Also make sure your shortening or butter has been refrigerated. Cold is key but don’t obsess about it. The early settlers had no refrigerators..think about it.
Mix the flour and salt together.
Add the butter or shortening (Tenderflake, Crisco etc) by cutting it up into cubes into the flour mixture. Use a pastry blender and begin cutting it into the flour.
Keep blending until there are no huge chunks of butter or shortening but they have broken down and are fully covered with flour. Next, you need to use your hands. Rinse your hands in some cold water first (but again, don’t obsess about the cold factor). Work your hands though the mixture trying to continue to break down the butter or shortening so that it looks like oatmeal, or a bunch of little round balls. You can alternate between using your hands and the pastry blender. It should look something like this at the end.
Next, get your ice cold water and begin to add it by the tablespoonful into the mixture. Every time you add water pull the mixture together. Remember you want pastry dough at the end. Keep adding water and pulling the dough together until it keeps together. It should just stick together enough to form a ball that again, holds together. The recipe might call for way more water than needed, so don’t keep adding water if you feel it does not need anymore. The recipe last night called for 8 tablespoons of water, I used 4.
Break the dough apart and make two even round balls. Put them in a plastic baggy and flatten them into two round disks. Put in the fridge for 30 min or not if you are making the pie right away. The key is to always keep the dough as cold as possible. When you are ready get a disk for the bottom of the pie and roll out the dough on a floured surface, making sure the rolled out dough is big enough for the pie plate…and so it hangs over the edge of the pie plate for sealing the pie together at the end.
Carefully, put the dough in the pie plate. I roll it up over the rolling pin and then roll it back over the pie plate. Do what works for you. Tearing, breaking, repairing, of the dough is all normal, you are not alone.
Once you have filled your pie up with whatever you want do the same as above for the top crust. And Voila…a pye!
9 Responses to “About Pye”
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I just wanted to share with you the only pie crust recipe I ever make… it is impossible to mess up, and very quick and easy to make! It makes 3 double pie crusts, but freezes well.
5 cups all purpose flour
1 egg
½ tsp. soda
3 tbsp. lemon juice (fresh or bottled)
2 tsp sugar
2 tsp salt
Cold water
1 cup Crisco shortening
1 cup soft butter (or margarine)
Place dry ingredients in large bowl and mix with spoon, add shortening and butter and mix with pastry blender or two knives (or hands). Break the egg into measuring cup add lemon juice and water to 1 cup liquid. Pour over flour mixture then mix well until ball forms. Place in plastic bag and work to smooth out.
Makes 3 double crust pies.
I wonder if I’m the person who said that only pie made with all butter is ‘real’ pie. Hmmm, sounds like it could have been.
I have since repented from my black and white ways and have been known to use many different variations and combinations of fat (including cream cheese) as I have found that different pastries lend themselves better to different fillings. I also enjoy the Tenderflake recipe.
The pumpkin pies I made today-recipe from the ED Smith can. I have tried no less than a dozen high falutin’ pumpkin pie recipes and nothing holds a candle to it.
I agree with the ED Smith can. I have done the whole bake the pumpkin thing and there is nothing like that canned puree and the recipe on the can. I cant fault you for your black and white ways, you were hanging around a pastry chef alot then…what’s a girl to do?
I find using a food processor, starting with the flour, and then adding the salt and sugar, and finally the butter and water works very well!
I am definitely going to try that. I just borrowed a food processor from a friend to see if I like it or not. Thanks for the tip.
Here is a food processor tip from the afore-mentioned pastry chef that is really valuable. Cut the butter into chunks and put them in the freezer til they are pretty solid, then pop them in the food processor and bob’s your uncle. The frozen butter is hard enough to withstand the rather vigorous blade of the food processor and maintain ‘pea size’ without being made to paste. Having said all that, if the butter is cold and you aren’t too gung ho it still works really well.
The cream cheese pastry I have (Martha) is totally a food processor gig and if I can figure out this new fangled blog thing I will post it. It goes with a spinach ricotta filling that ids fantastic.
I really want that cream cheese pastry!!! I am still figuring out how to make the posts visible under the blog. I should try to have a section…”post a recipe”…hmmmm. This computing machine is tricky.
I really need to figure out how to make these comments so that everyone can see them…hmmm
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