Leeks, the unsung vegetable heros..
I was first introduced to the leek in Belgium where it is a standard vegetable side dish. The Belgians that I had the pleasure of dining with, traditionally made them with ham and cheese. It was so tasty that I have not forgotten it.
Leeks have long been treasured in Europe and the Mediterranean. Americans have just recently jumped on the leek bandwagon. Soups may be the most popular use of leeks, but new food combinations are bringing the leek back and turning it “gourmet”. In BC, we are in leek season, so if you haven’t yet tried cooking them at home, it’s time you enjoyed their subtle, sweet flavor.
Leek has a mild onion-like taste, although less bitter than scallion. The taste might be described as a mix of mild onion and cucumber. It has a fresh smell similar to scallion. In its raw state, the vegetable is crunchy and firm.
Leek is typically chopped into slices 5-10mm thick. The slices have a tendency to fall apart, due to the layered structure of the leek. There are different ways of preparing the vegetable:
- Boiled, which turns it soft and mild in taste.
- Fried, which leaves it more crunchy and preserves the taste.
- Raw, which can be used in salads, doing especially well when they are the prime ingredient.
- A traditional Welsh soup is made with leek; it is made using root vegetables such as rutabaga, carrots and potatoes and different meats. Lamb is the most popular. This soup or “cawl” as it has origionally been called has been enjoyed by the nation since the 14th century.
Cutting and Cleaning Leeks:
Cut off the tough dark green leaves an inch or two above the white part of the stalk. You can save these leaves for stocks or broths.
Cut off the root right where it joins the white base, keeping enough fibrous material to hold the leek together.
Cut away and compost the coarse outer layer of green, you will see tender green leaves you can use
Cut the leek in half lengthwise, either all the way through the end, or just below the end if you want to cook it whole.
Swish the leek around under water, using your fingers to pull apart the layers. Look through each layer to be sure you find all the sand. This works under running water too.
Now slice the leek crossways as thick or thin as you like. This is best for dishes like soups and stews where the leek will cook into the dish and dissappear. The longer the cooking time, the thicker the slice.
Or slice them lengthwise as thick or thin as you like. I like this cut for salads or fried or stir fried.
For a quicker way, you can take the short cut. Just prep them, sand and all, rinse them well in a colander submerged in a bowl of cold water, then pat them dry. I use a salad spinner, it works wonderfully!
Leek Cooking ideas:
- For a delicious accompaniment to grilled or pan-fried fish, serve gently stir-fried, finely chopped leek with a light drizzle of extra-virgin olive oil and a sprinkling of your favourite, firm, melting cheese (try parmesan, cheddar or pecorino).
- Because of their mild taste, leeks go very well with eggs. Sneak some into your next quiche, fritatta, omelette or batch of savoury muffins with their traditional accompaniment, bacon – and the kids won’t even notice!
- Whip up a traditional Italian dish with sautéed leek, garlic, chillies and olive oil. Mix it together with your favourite wholemeal pasta, a handful of cherry tomatoes, and a sprinkling of parsley. Delicious.
Leeks with Ham and Cheese Au Gratin
4 leeks
250g lean ham slices
50g butter or margarine
50g plain flour
500ml milk
125g grated Swiss cheese (or other)
2 Tbsp chopped parsley (optional)
1/2 tsp grated nutmeg
1/4 tsp paprika
1 egg yolk
1 egg white
3 tsp lemon juice
Mashed potato (optional)
Parmesan cheese
Breadcrumbs
Trim the leeks, removing the leafy top and the bottom. Cut a cross into the tops and plunge into cold water to remove any soil from the vegetable.
Simmer in water to cover along with 2 tsp lemon juice until the leeks are cooked (about 30 minutes). Take care not to boil too agitatedly as the leeks will break up.
Meanwhile, make cheese sauce by melting the butter in a medium pan then stirring in the flour.
Allow to cook gently for 3 minutes.
Add the milk, a little at a time, stirring frequently.
Once thickened, add cheese, nutmeg, paprika and parsley (if using).
When cheese has melted and the sauce is smooth, remove from heat and stir in the egg yolk.
Drain leeks well and allow to cool a little before assembling the dish.
In an ovenproof dish put a layer of mashed potato (if using).
Roll each leek in ham slices, cutting up the leeks into shorter lengths if they are too long.
Place in the oven proof dish and top with half the sauce.
Beat egg whites with remaining teaspoon of lemon juice until peaks form.
Fold remaining sauce into the egg whites.
Pour over other cheese.
Sprinkle with a little Parmesan cheese and a few breadcrumbs.
Cook in 190°C oven for 25 to 30 minutes until top is beautifully browned.
Leeks with walnut vinaigrette
Directions:
Trim the tough dark green tops and stem ends of 12 leeks, but keep the bases intact. Halve lengthwise and rinse well. Boil in salted water until tender, about 10 minutes. Drain and cool in a bowl of salted ice water, then drain and pat dry. Whisk 1 tablespoon dijon mustard, 2 tablespoons white wine vinegar, 1/2 teaspoon salt, and pepper to taste in a bowl. Whisk in 1/3 cup walnut oil and drizzle over the leeks. Top with chopped toasted walnuts and chopped parsley.
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